It wasn’t all that long ago that travellers passing through Canberra would have been met with a decidedly ‘regional’ looking airport.

A small and unassuming building with a distinctly temporary feel, boasting a newsagent, a couple of coffee shops, airline lounges and not much else. These days, it’s a different story.

The new Canberra Airport terminal shouts ‘CAPITAL CITY OF AUSTRALIA!’ – all smooth, shiny surfaces and striking minimalist design. It makes Sydney Airport look absolutely old hat. The newsagent and coffee shops are still there, as are the lounges – but they’re pretty damn swanky – but so is a fantastic little Asian cafe, Tuk Chop, and the new kid on the block, Limestone Cafe and Bar.

Limestone is a win for we plebs who don’t enjoy corporately-paid airline Club membership – not only is it a place where we can sit and have a nice glass of wine and a bite to eat while we await departure, but it’s actually good enough to warrant a visit to the airport whether you’re travelling or not. I met my friend Mat there a couple of weeks ago – we’d been meaning to get together and it was conveniently near Costco where I needed to do a spot of shopping. Yes, you need to pass through security to get there, but once you do, it’s a surprisingly serene space. Unlike its Sydney or Melbourne airport cousins, it’s easy to forget that you’re eating in a transport hub.

Architect Richard Phillips, Manager of Aviation Projects with Canberra Airport, says this is a deliberate combination of a both planning and design elements.

“In planning terms, the bar serves just what will be two aircraft boarding gates, so the majority of passengers turn off before the bar.  The architecture of the atrium space with it high ceilings, extent of glass and cleverly integrated acoustic treatment all add to the feel of the space.

“The ‘Unfurling’ sculpture by Melbourne based sculptor Andrew Rogers is offset from the building axis and this gives the bar seating space room.”

It’s a really striking space. The bar is clad in illuminated handmade lime-coloured glass tiles, teamed with blue and yellow and aged mirrors, and dark textured tiles, all held together by softer timber elements and floor. There’s also a certain amount of industrial chic with the glazed cool room exposing the beer kegs and lines.

“The brief to the designers, Patrick Torcaiso and Jit Lau, was basically ‘wow’ us and they certainly did that,” says Richard.

In our Centenary year where the spotlight is firmly on our city, it’s pleasing to see that the ‘local’ element has been incorporated in every aspect of the bar – from fitout to food, starting with the name. “Limestone” takes its name from Canberra’s origins – the city is built on what was formerly the ‘limestone plains’.

This nod to the region is extended through the food and beverage menu, with an aim of celebrating the excellence of local good and wine.

Peter Reffell, Executive Chef with Emirates Leisure Retail, the company behind Limestone, says “we believe that there is nothing better than what’s on your doorstep. Every cut of meat can be traced back to the local breeder and producers. We start at the heart of the source, great quality products that need little doing to them apart from simple cooking.”

“We choose to work with suppliers who match our passion for food, like Griffith Butchery – a butchery with an environmental conscience with the same passion as myself for quality.”

All Limestone’s fruit and vegetables are sourced from farms throughout the ACT region by a family run business that has direct contact with the growers ensuring simple, fresh produce from field to plate. And it doesn’t end there, the suppliers list reading like a ‘who’s who’ of quality local food and wine.

There’s locally brewed German ale from Zierholz Premium Brewery  – a genuine Bavarian wheat beer made from European style hops honouring the family’s heritage – and Wild Brumby Schnapps from the Snowy Mountains (perhaps a pre-departure shot for nervous fliers?)

And wine is supplied from several regional wineries:  certified biodynamic and organic vineyard, Lark Hill; Mount Majura Vineyard, whose slopes contain limestone making for unique wines with real character, and Chalkers Crossing, whose Young winery is focused on producing premium cool climate wines specific to the region.

In contrast to the produce from our own backyard, there is a distinctly ‘American’ feel to the menu  – burgers, soft tacos, slaw, pulled pork, etc. Classic, delicious comfort food.

“Nostalgic fare has really emerged in restaurants this year, with unstructured menus making entrées and mains a thing of the past,” says Peter.

“This casualisation of menus has allowed for the adoption children’s food for grown-ups and follows on from the trend of the ever growing number of food trucks on our streets; from burgers and tacos to gourmet hot dogs.”

But what of the actual dining experience? When I ate there, my overall impressions were that prices were low (most items around the $10 mark), service was fast, and the food was really fresh – all things really important for the Canberra commuter market.

I had the pulled pork soft tacos and they were amazing. Great flavours, really fresh, good value for $9.90. My friend Mat had the Margarita pizza, and he said it was the perfect size for a light lunch, and really really tasty.

Overall, Limestone is off to a flying start – a great addition to the Canberra Airport precinct and yet another sign that our city is really growing up.

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