Wood & Coal: a feast for the gods

Posted on 3 October, 2014

You’re forgiven if you’re still yet to discover the newest spit-eatery to join the ranks of Canberra’s constantly changing yet ever so enticing dining experiences. But before you judge this labour of love based on its shopping centre location, it would serve you well to remember to never judge a book by its cover… 

For months we’ve seen it boarded up with just the words “Wood & Coal” offered in an effort to tantalise our taste buds and tickle our thoughts just enough to wonder what was taking place inside the shell that was once Babar. Well Canberra, dinner has been served.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6MRPFRR7qNM/VC1lscnjrGI/AAAAAAAAJfU/iJ6EokV6qqI/s144-c-o/IMG_0804.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065616087408684130″ caption=”Canberra’s newest spit-eatery, Wood & Coal” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0804.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_caption=”1″ pe2_img_align=”center” ]

With husband (Mr. B) in tow, (actually I think it was more the other way around) we walked off Civic’s Bunda Street and into a Mediterranean feast…

Seated at a raw timber table overlooking the action of the open kitchen, the heat from the white-hot coals under the spit are quick to warm us as we watch the chefs move, almost dance, around each other in a seamless and captivating nature. But while the flames leap high, you’ll find that most of the dishes are warm not hot when served with the Greeks preferring it this way, at least according to traditions.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fONRp8EC9yI/VC1kyTIBKVI/AAAAAAAAJdk/B8ardG_Yg2g/s144-c-o/IMG_0730.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615088428067154″ caption=”It’s all about the spit at Wood & Coal.” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0730.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_caption=”1″ pe2_img_align=”center” ]

As dish after dish become ready, it is a simple clap of the hands that has the friendly, always smiling wait staff sweep them up and place them, ready to be devoured, in front of those who have ordered. Under the recommendation of pedigree Executive Chef Shaoyi Kuek (from the kitchen of Sydney’s Wildfire), we are introduced to incredible, oh-so-wrong but oh-so-right flavour combinations that leave us wanting more.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-m4pXP7V9a-g/VC1lc0qjakI/AAAAAAAAJe0/ZM88qaxnbtI/s144-c-o/IMG_0781.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615818985794114″ caption=”Always smiling, Wood & Coal’s wait staff know their food and will serve their dishes with a comprehensive rundown of what’s on your plate.” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0781.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

While the menu has been designed with most dishes available to eat by one or shared by many, we put the fate of our taste buds in the hands of Chef Shaoyi and opt for a mystery 8-course feast that has us sample the best of the menu. But not before perusing the extensive and quite impressive wine list (I think I counted maybe seven pages) featuring both Australian and international renowned, local and boutique wines.

Set with a chilled glass of 2013 Clonakilla Viognier Nouveau (a personal favourite) and an Asahi Japanese beer, we’re ready for the salivating to subside as the first course is placed down in front of us. There is no real course order but rather one dish served after the next, except of course for dessert. Before we dig in, Andrew Duong (Wood & Coal’s Business Manager) explains that what we’re about to eat is only a taste of what’s to come from Wood & Coal in the next 12 months.

Dish 1: Milk Bun Thit with Charcoal Spit Meat of the Day, Yuzu mayo, pickled carrot, cucumber, coriander and chilli

Surprisingly, I have never been one for pig (well, pork). It’s kinda like that guy at school who intrigued you with his suaveness but wasn’t really anything to look at and something you were never really sure you wanted to try. My relationship with pork has been much the same. Until a few months ago.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-D6TmcatezHs/VC1k4YEx_5I/AAAAAAAAJd0/QCV9IOFtHcw/s144-c-o/IMG_0738.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615192835882898″ caption=”Milk Bun Thit with Charcoal Spit Meat of the Day, Yuzu mayo, pickled carrot, cucumber, coriander and chilli” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0738.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

Now, I can’t enough ‘pork on my fork’ and my Wood & Coal white meat affair is no different. Like any new love interest, all it takes is one kiss to seal the deal, or in this case, bite and with that, a deepening of feelings for this very yummy, very suave meat. You’ll be hooked on its powerful, zesty combination of coriander, roughly chopped chilli, pork belly and yuzu mayo; an explosion of flavours that pack a punch and will leave you wondering if it is in fact a Greek take on the Vietnamese Saigon Roll slash Bahn-Mi… But take note that at $12 for two, this is a dish suited more as a starter or light lunch, then a fulfilling main, unless of course your sharing in which case it’ll leave plenty of room for more.

Dish 2: Fremantle Octopus, Green tomato with Black Humus, Chickpeas, cucumber and caper

You know when you’re asked to choose your favourite dish? Well, this would have to be it. While the distinctive flavours are one thing, (I’ll get to that soon) it is the way in which this dish arrives on its green clay plate that has me intrigued. It looks to be a busy one with a combination of textures and flavours but every element is necessary in bringing this dish together. And that is exactly what I love most about it—the way we are told to eat it, and the joy that spreads across Andrew ‘s face when we ask.

“Eat the end of the tentacle first to truly experience that smoky, barbecue spit flavour…It’s not like most octopus–too chewy or tough,” he instructs.

“Then take a little of everything onto your fork.”

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-G8pW_-pi01E/VC1lONnXc0I/AAAAAAAAJec/WvffzxjT0gQ/s144-c-o/IMG_0744.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615567985275714″ caption=”Fremantle Octopus, Green tomato with Black Humus, Chickpea, cucumber and caper” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0744.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

I’m hesitant to put my fork to the plate, as my eyes take off on a culinary journey to explore the dish before me. The brilliant green compressed cucumber adds an unusual texture giving the impression of being somewhat more juicier than it actually is; an interesting element nonetheless and something I’ve not yet come across before. The deep-fried parcels are in fact deep-fried heirloom tomatoes that give the right balance of sweet tartness that cuts through the smokiness of the octopus. Smeared with the black humus and a few capers that just crumble in your mouth for me it is this dish that speaks of Wood & Coal’s true Mediterranean essence.

Dish 3: Bacahlau Fish Fingers, smoked oyster emulsion, purple carrot, pea tendril, fig jam

This dish puts frozen fish fingers to absolute shame and I don’t think I will ever be able to bring myself to buy them again. Bacahlau is Portuguese for cod and while it’s not considered a Mediterranean country Portugal does have a Mediterranean climate so it’s not hard to see why this dish has made a splash on the menu.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4j66rQJSg-c/VC1lCr5XKkI/AAAAAAAAJeE/LWvBavQTLeY/s144-c-o/IMG_0748.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615369955387970″ caption=”Bacahlau Fish Fingers, smoked oyster emulsion, purple carrot, pea tendril, fig jam” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0748.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

Crumbed and fried to golden perfection, the fluffy texture of the fish and subtly of the smoked oyster emulsion with the sweet fig jam pairs well with a nice white wine, namely the Clonakilla’s 2013 Viognier Nouveau although I’m sure there are others on the list. Willing to try anything once, I open my mouth to the oyster emulsion expecting its overpowering slimy sensation but am actually pleasantly surprised. Rather subtle and not at all what I thought it may be, I definitely recommend you give this one a try even if you’re not one for clams or molluscs. You just might like it.

Dish 4: Stuffed charred leek, cream cheese, ricotta salata, hazelnut

Two words. Savoury dessert. Had we decided to order from the menu we both agree we probably would not have picked this dish, which is why it pays to either a) have a chef willing to serve you dishes of his choice or b) simply ask your waiter for a recommendation. Perfect for vegetarians and those with gluten intolerance (yes, it is gluten-free), and even those who don’t like vegetable-based dishes, you will fall in love with this dish just like Mr. B has. The crumbed hazelnut is more a praline with a real sticky, toffee-like texture that when combined with the softness of the leek and nutty body of the shaved ricotta salata makes an incredible mouthful of flavours you’ve probably not experienced together before. Unusual but oh so yummy, it’s one dish that I’ll certainly go back for more and highly recommend.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XhQ6cqL9j98/VC1lJGTvZiI/AAAAAAAAJeM/dRton8_P1Jk/s144-c-o/IMG_0752.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615480124565026″ caption=”Stuffed charred leek, cream cheese, ricotta salata, hazelnut” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0752.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_caption=”1″ pe2_img_align=”center” ]

Dish 5: Suckling Pig (as it should be)

Salted and left in the fridge for two days only to then be slow cooked for six hours, this is suckling pig as it should be. Juicy. Succulent. Tender. Bursting with a sweet sticky juice, it is incomparably moist, tender and delicate. Sitting in a shallow pool of a tangy vinaigrette, the pig takes on somewhat of a slightly pickled flavour as it melts away with each mouthful.  While devouring every bite, our cheeky and (quite evident) loveable host, Frank Pazios (nephew to Wood & Coal’s owner and industry veteran John Apostolopoulos), shares with a charismatic smile just why it is that Greek’s love their food and the very thing this spit-eatery is founded on.

“If you’ve ever been to a Greek wedding, christening…well, any celebration…it’s all about the food,” says Frank.

“It brings people together.”

“The men will almost always eat meat from the spit as they try to outdo each other in a competition of who cooks the best spit meat—a tradition passed through the generations—while the women will be off in the kitchen making thousands of salads that never get eaten.”

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DRKatU9T9jk/VC1lVkE5zmI/AAAAAAAAJek/J8mPPKjbJO8/s144-c-o/IMG_0760.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615694273826402″ caption=”Suckling Pig (as it should be)” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0760.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_caption=”1″ pe2_img_align=”center” ]

It’s probably here just before the fifth course that I realise we’ve essentially taken part in a great Greek feast (albeit with two people) and, without realising it, have behaved exactly as Greek culture dictates. Taking food off each other’s plate, talking with our hands, laughing and even speaking with our mouths full. While my upbringing has taught me to be ladylike and to not overindulge, this feast has been the exact opposite…And everything John, his family and staff are hoping to achieve.

“We want you to come in with friends, family and enjoy our food like we do,” says Frank.

“That’s what this is [Wood & Coal] all about.”

Dish 6: Twice cooked lamb, blackened eggplant, finger fennel, artichoke chips, bleu d’auvergne

So then when in Greece do as the Greeks do and eat, right? Even when doubled over with pains of indigestion from so much food? All self-inflicted of course. At this point I’ve very quietly undone the top button on my jeans as I find myself struggling with this sixth dish. Mr. B on the other hand has found another love and has no shame in eating my serve–that is the whole dish.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3JNyreDOFB0/VC1lZDzV57I/AAAAAAAAJes/RFd9kKD4bos/s144-c-o/IMG_0765.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615754329712562″ caption=”Twice cooked lamb, blackened eggplant, finger fennel, artichoke chips, bleu d’auvergne” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0765.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

From what I’ve tried, it certainly is fulfilling and if accompanied with the freshness of a crisp Village Salad or the Brussel Sprouts with Green Goddess dressing would make a beautiful main course and definitely one to indulge in come the cooler months. It’s just slightly on the too heavy side for me with its combination of rich and pungent flavours but a dish that is left a clean plate nonetheless.

Dish 7: Dark Chocolate Baklava, Morello Cherry Coulis, Clotted Cream, Pistachio Crumb, Yoghurt Ice-cream, Beetroot Meringue

If you can make it through a feast of six savoury dishes, you can certainly make it through this incredible deconstructed dessert. But where to begin? Decadent comes to mind with this one, especially with the chocolate ganache but it is the lightness of the yoghurt ice-cream (nope, not frozen yoghurt; this is ice-cream that tastes exactly like a vanilla yoghurt) that breaks down the sweet richness of it all and the beetroot meringue that opens the palate to experience the full flavours of this dessert.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-T_9_dbN1Nu4/VC1llUTnMBI/AAAAAAAAJfE/FbNN6vUVBC0/s144-c-o/IMG_0792.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615964918460434″ caption=”Dark Chocolate Baklava, Morello Cherry Coulis, Clotted Cream, Pistachio Crumb, Yoghurt Ice-cream, Beetroot Meringue” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0792.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

Each component is a delicious combination of flavour and texture particularly the savoury pistachio crumb and the crunchy pastry found underneath the chocolate ganache if you can manage to get through it. It’s only downfall? Not enough yoghurt ice-cream.

Dish 8: Olive Oil Sponge Cake, Blood Orange Custard, Red Velvet Cheesecake Ice-cream, Olive Soil

When one cooks and it comes out black, burnt or charred one cannot call it appetising. Or can they? This is one [deliberately] black dish that I definitely did not think I would come to savour as much as I did nor consider ordering ever again. But I did and I will.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-o9KvL68-WuM/VC1lg9xwvwI/AAAAAAAAJe8/qMhwZ0v–qs/s144-c-o/IMG_0786.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065615890151423746″ caption=”Olive Oil Sponge Cake, Blood Orange Custard, Red Velvet Cheesecake Ice-cream, Olive Soil” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0786.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

Tasting nothing at all like olive oil (perhaps just a hint), this is a very light dessert perfect for refreshing the palate after an intense degustation like ours. Read together on the menu, it’s hard to believe that every element works exactly as it should despite the contrasting flavours but this stunning dessert with its vivid colour and smooth textures will do more than surprise you. It will take your breath away…

Fluffy and airy, the sponge cake is perfect despite its rough appearance but it is the taste bud trickery of the red velvet cheesecake ice-cream that I really enjoy. Expecting the usual thick, creamy texture true of a cheesecake it is refined, smooth and velvety with just the right amount of this vivid frozen treat served alongside its dark counterpart. This is one dessert not to shy away from.

While its Civic location doesn’t quite take you to the Greek Isles or warm Mediterranean sun, it does capture a rather different feel. If what Wood & Coal are trying to achieve is the experience of what it means to feast with friends and family, then they’ve certainly done so with the rendered arches, vines and interior blend of brick and wood panelling, and of course its menu.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9JLpYjYOBkc/VC1lrU4PpJI/AAAAAAAAJfM/4-8UBdTI-6w/s144-c-o/IMG_0803.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/108454826374315674707/WoodCoal#6065616068151321746″ caption=”Share a meal with many…” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0803.JPG” pe2_single_image_size=”w614″ pe2_img_align=”center” pe2_caption=”1″ ]

The hint of blue behind the free-standing bar may be a nod to its Greek inspiration, but it is the days of the Greek Gods that I find myself making comparisons to throughout this dining experience. Or at least what I can only imagine it would have been like. Communal tables, copious barrels of wine and freshly slaughtered meat straight from the coals of the spit.

Food eaten as it should be, enjoyed as it should be and of course, shared with many…as it should be.

Jessica and Mr. B dined courtesy of Wood & Coal, but have plans to revisit (often) to share the experience with family and friends. 

The essentials

What: Wood & Coal
Where: 7 Bunda Street, Civic
When:  11.30am to late, 7 days a week
Bookings: 02 6162 0055
Web: www.woodandcoal.com.au